Its hard to imagine why anyone would climb a multi-pitch route these days with a regular tuber or figure-8. This is changing, maybe due to international guiding standards, but I still see a lot of people using a non-blocking belay device for the second when it would be far more suitable to use an auto-block to do so (90+ percent of the time while ice or rock climbing, less so with alpine climbing). In Canada and Europe this is the common method of belaying the second, but its still less so in the USA for some reason. The solution for me is straightforward: use an ATC Guide or some other auto-block belay device when belaying the second off a solid anchor. It took me a couple of years to come around to the idea of belaying the second with a placquete-style device, but once you start you'll never go back, it's just safer and lower stress (if you have a decent belay anchor-if you don't you're an idiot anyhow). If you're not using some sort of autolock device for the second on multi-pitch routes you're missing out, it's great and a lot safer. Most of the highly experienced climbers and guides that ive met or read about use autoblock when its warranted Personally i find it very odd this thing against autoblock on the intraweb forums. autoblock is the fastest way to climb and the safest way to belay two at once i climb with 2 seconds a decent amount of the time. the smart is smooth as butter even belaying 2 climbers on thick fuzzy ropes i find it faster to pull in the rope with an autoblock setup.
#PETZL REVERSO 4 VS BLACK DIAMOND ATC GUIDE FULL#
theres tons of busy routes here in squamish with stacked belays, often full of newbies.
the canadian rockies have serious rockfall issues even on popular routes
i belay in autoblock 80% of the time whether on gear or bolts Top belay in autoblock mode is especially a pain (when compared to just belaying off your harness) should your climber need to be lowered. I think unless you're belaying two followers, there's not much of a reason to use it. Even on bolted belays, there's no reason why you can't just extend yourself away from the bolts a little then redirect through your anchor.
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